RIDAY. SEPTEMBER 11. 1914 THE ZDMONTON JOURNAL 15 Men Follow Women’s Tendencies In Latest Style of Hats; Many Shades and Colors Will be Seen We’re bliowLng some Iiaixl.vnne new and exclusive “Chont-y” Xeckwear designs for Fall, rare color conibiuations to match tlie new shirts. 75c, $1.00 and $1.50. There Are o many Models for Fall Wear That the Poor Male Will be Simply Bewildered Ornamental Bands, Too, May Be All the Go ft i3 Bl i I i a” i , en -! .J 1. 1 si .vol A. JOS A ml MM TH1 law 1. !i.l 14b. ALU PO i. .i Hi, tor. r I, J i 4 F rf ‘. the Dain Delicate Colors Are Exploited in Latest Up-to-the-Minute Under Apparel Authority on Woman’s Dreis Gives Interesting Talk on Prevailing Fashions (Bv PEGGY POWERS). i ‘!.:! t- now :ii essential i-h ment in f 1 1 t a il i : II i I tT ill Utnl’T HKH cl. Fh-sli pink aii’I oHht ihiieatf linl.d shades are exploded in tit” lutes lingerie, which is surely dainty enough for the most f.r. l iilious. With the all white miller ariionls it is best ta:-te to use while ribbons’ Quality and durability were formerly the prime reipiiMiex, but today cleverness of 1’ijt ami dainliiuss extreme rank hrst. Wash chitTon trimmed wiih pale green, blue, pink or cauarv eliilToii bands, crepe de chine, bust isle nainsook, soft silk and even nets form many of the undergarments which are cut en the lines well adapted for wear with the present day modes. The triumph of wash taffeta is a lasHoiiri weave, which launders perfectly, is reflected in eery type of underwear combinations; under bodices, night dresses, skirls and combinations of taffeta arc not made with fluffy ruffles, but along more clnssical lines with tailored moire bona and French seams. Italian silk underwear has gained ItOUS.’illds of devotees because of its excellent wearing finalities and assured fit. The knickers, which are worn in lieu of a’ pt tticont, are finished either with an clastic band and ribbon bows or trimmed with plea tings or flounces of I ice. Pantalettes of a new brocaded mesh adorned with accordewn pleated ruf- THE noF Styles change rapidly in the architecture of homes, just as it does in millinery. Some new convenience to save labor, some new ventilation or outdoor sleeping places, some cosy nook to make the real home feeling. W’hyte & Co., Ltd.. specialize in houses. All of the best houses of the city that are for sale or to rent find their way to this ortice and there are goodly listings of the artistic homes of 19 i t for the use of every home seeker. ‘Twould save your time and money to use the service we have for you. Phone 5356. .7 $8.50 to HART BROS. tiness, a Prevailing Pes anil rose buds come in all the v.anteii shades. I’nioti suits with silk tops and mercerized bottoms, have won approval. Petticoats are made so as to hate sufficient fullness over the knees, which Is u blessing after wearing skirts which were so tight the seam pulled out without the slightest warning. Plain or changeable messa-line. crepe de chine, taffeta, iace. chiffon, and the flimsiest of nets over thin silk are employed in the skills, many of which seem to personify the very spirit of dancing. Instead of straight lines, a new skirl has the upper part in blouse effect, where it is Joined to the narrow pleated ruffle. The light weight kirts of silk or lace, flounced with luce, have an elas’le fitted al half width to keep the close filling skirt in place. Frntirely different are the skirts of silk jersey with deep yokes and elastic waist bands, a wide accordeon pleated flounce attached to the yoke, gives freedom of motion nnmnd the feet. The pantelettes fully ss popular as the petticoats, are made of lace, net, silk, or taffeta with ruches, flounces, fringes and pleatlnes for a finish, often they are worn under the skirt with the lace ruffles glimpsing beneath the skirl. For use as a night dress, or a negligee, are F.gyptlan crepe slips with a band of luce at the neck. The be-enmlngness of the surplice is very evident in these gowns. “Wide T,ouls- 1914 H T HE I & COMPANY, LIMITED r LDMON TON S HOUSE SPECIALISTS 111 Brown Bldg., corner Second and Jasper. Evening Phone 3382 A WONDERFUL air of newness has infested this store during the later days. All summer merchanjise Jus been removed lest its presence should mar the beauty of the store’s new dress. Each and every counter, case, shelf and wardrobe glistens with bright fresh “never-seen-before” styles tempting and ujYnt; the oniouker to neer into everv nook and corner should he not miss a single item of this w onderful display of Men’s Wear. Kliiti-Blocli a?id Coppley, Noyes & Riiudall have filled our Wardrobe with the ‘ results of their years of experience and progreasiveneas in the tailoring business. Every model reflects a degree of originality and authenticity that should appeal in no uncertain way to any man who gives serious thought to the clothes problem. Suits and Overcoats $20 to $40 ‘ Only one shoe for you the best “WALK-OVER” TEWstylesare most plentiful in the shoe section. Long pointed toes with low heels.are the choice with men who know. Our favorite is “The Win-sor,” so styled in a chocolate brown. Another in a tan kangaroo called “The Frat” rf See them both. “Walk-Over” Shoes H ine ribbon is run through eyelets at tlw waist and fastened with a bow. In the adjustment of the bow, all sorts of Fienchy ideas are noticed. Xalnsoek gowns, with striped rain-sook tucked bands, are cut on straight lines and made rather short. Hemstitching, picot -edging, tucks and puffings nre used as well as laces. Torchon and t’btny lace are used extensively, but the shadow luces are still favored Relaxation Robes Negligees represent an Interesting problem, line can by means of careful planning evolve wom’erful results. The woman who makes her own boudoir robes knows what a discarded silk dr.-ss with some chiffon and lace osn lie changed into a fascinating negligee. Theoateis of lace or chiffon worn over accordeon pleated slips, are an excellent suggestion, for me little coat can do service for severs! slips. P.enuliful house dresses of omr-roid-ered Jepamsc crepe are made with panniers and low waistlines and decorated with s’lU i.vhcIs sud colored stone c-naments. Silk, chnllis. albatross, ipiiltcd silk and crepe negligees are made along simple lines, and every well grootned woman has one or more, for she pays as much attention to her indoor attire as to the outdoor dresses. Hemstitched chiffon, organdie or ret collars and cuffs era seen on tlie simpler garments. Pink taffeta ruchea are clisrming on the erepe or criffon robe?, flusters of rose buds give Just the needed touch f floweriness to the graceful frilly, filmy negligees. A rest robe, deliehtful for the hours of esse. Is of pink crepe de chine OMES CITYn EXCLUSIVE AUTUMN FASHIONS FOR MEN! shown at the Boston are your warranty of correct dress for Fall and Winter Contributions to the World’s Best Hatter JOHN B. Stetson, Mallory and Borsalino hats here in the bow quarter back, pencil brims, new browns, blues, greens and grays. Austrian velour too in their own most service- gf r P f able colors. Fall Hats rii priced SO.00 to … PkJ.JJ BOSTON The store for men, young men and, women who shop for men JASPER AT Note in with two cream lace insertions at the bottom of the skirt edged with th-e-inch pleatings of the crepe de chine. The front of the waist is cut in deep points and embroidered. A lace band defines the normal waist line, and is Joined to another piece of lace which is draped in a polonaise in the back. The short sleeves and low neck are finished with lace and crepe pleating, and embroidered. Another graceful affair is of lavender crepe de chine. The back is draped half way; the front is open, snd it his a short jacket effect of lavender chiffon, which is loose fitting and ex-lends to the waist line. The cuffs, collar and girdle nre of Roman striped ribbon: from the girdle In the back is a band of “the ribbon, finishing in a flat bow on the skirt drapery. Whether you are slender or stout, your corset should fit romfortably. The aim of the fashionable corset is to reveal good lines and conceal or correct poor ones. j Infinitely more easy to wear are : present day low corsets than those jwilh wasp-like waists and iron-clad ! hiys nf by-gone days. Though the cor-I sets show a slight curve at the waist, ! i will be a long time before we again j adopt styles which will interfere with our health. The natural figure is not waistless “What’s What” in Correct Fall Clothes for Men of All Ages; Ideas are of Varying Types Style This Year is a Comprom ise Between the Old-Fashioned Broad Shoulder and the Narrow, Popularly Known as “English” In the last few years we have had varying types of ideas in men’s clothes. Not so many years ago the broad shoulder type was extremely popular. It was no uncommon sight to see a man whose coat was so constructed that his shoulders looked altogether too big for his body. Within a few seasons the stile took a complete turn, and the broad shoulder design turned to the extreme narrow shoulder, which was popularly known as the “English style.” For the fall and winter of l?14 we will have a style that is somewhat of a compromise betwean the two extreme ideas. The shoulder will not le so narrow as to give a mr.:i an abnormally slim appearance, but they will be of a sous re type: though they will not be nearly so wide as the old style athletic shoulders. The coals will also be verj much different from tae spring styles. In length, yoi will undoubtdi.- remember that the vuats of the past spring were extremely short. The coats for fall will be a little longer, averaging about 30 1-1 ins., and the new style will undoubtedly be very welcome to a majority of good dressers. For a great many years Ixmdon has been regarded as the style eeulre of the world for men’s clothes. Though there is no deiivhig the fact thst it still main tains that portion, we find by analysis that the clothes for the Full represent a; decidedly Uerman tendency. Heretofore-the gorge of the lapels and its peaks have j been rather high, which is a typical Kng- j lish creation, but Fall styles will be made j with the lower gorge and lower peak and. will very closely resemble those that will 99TH STREET J Lingeries and hipless the corset should curvd to just the extent that the gorrectly formed woman is curved, and give healthful support. The waistline is normal, the back straight, the hips small, but the new models are a trifle higher busted. Tops measuring up to live inches are noted, some with elastic gores inserted to give more room for breathing. Inexpensive la.-d-in-front models are more universally wnrn than heretofore. Strong. pliable materials, which need but few well-placed bones form the latest models. Suede, tricot, brocades, routil. batiste and elastic webbing are mostly desired. Pink and flowered designs are introduced into corset fabrics. Brassiers hsve become almost Indispensable as n corset adjunct. Partiality is given to models hooking up the centre-front. There are soft openwork brassiers designed especially for wear wth transparent waists. Brassiers of l ice or embroidery lined with flesh-col. red net have the same colored .net shields and embroidery. Hilk I tricot, or linen and cluny lace bras siers, or soft, loose camisoles. cut kimona shape and made with an elastic band at the waist line ,aie richly ornamented with lace and embroidery and included amongst the dainty intimacies of nnderdress. be worn bj the better dressed men of , Berlin and other metropolitan German centres. j The patterns for Fall wMl lie very much like those for Spring ?.r. except, of i course, they will be darker in tone. The tartan plaid which was but moderately popular during the Spring season will hecome more and more in vogue as the , season progresses, nud when the Fall : season sets in. it is almost certain loj be the twist popular atteru which has i ever been worn. j It is perhaps one of the richest designs j that weavers have ever created, and its best examples are those in blue and gren ; combinations. Plain colors and special ‘ blues in rough weaves will be more popu- i lar than they ever were and will be th j almost unanimous choice of men who i pay attention to the nieeties of correct dres. j Small checks will also be very much in vogue, but will be displayed in the; more sombre color combination instead of the black and white checks that were i so popular during the Spring- Stripes j will be very much in demand and will J be shown in a number of different pat- j terns. Thera will be single stripes. 1 double stripes and even triple stripes.: spaced from a tiuarter lo one inch apart. ‘ Styles in Men’s Overcoats The ItsIniseHan stales which began tc be iopti)sr in a small way in the Fall of lsl3 and beewme the rage in the, Sprina of 1914. wilt he the prevailing style ; for Fall wear. Hut the liaima’-aaii has had a great number of modifications 1 Since it first became in vogue. You will j probably remember that the early Bal-j macaans were loose, shapeless, b? eg; j Not io inajiy year uxo the etyle in nif-Q’s hats iiu a pretty staple pro-potation, and jf a man so desired he could readily wear a spring hat in tb fail and k versa; but it seems tbst nirn have followed the tendency of women in style, and tbe number of different designs which one may now hod on display at a large hat tore is (.liuoist unlimited. On hatter confided the fact ttial the hat business was a tnuch more precarious proposition than previously, and that new styles seem to spring up almost more quickly than h can order. 5 Thin was partic ularly true of the hat j for sprint wear and will again be T flailed in the vast number of styles which woald be proper for use this I When tlie green bat was first de- signed, it was tbe halt of every joue-j smith in the country, and the man who had tbe nerve to wear one was considered to btt an eKuenit-iy braxe sort of pi-sun; but for fill wear, the green bat will turf only be popular I but it will be copauifcd by hats of a great many other colors that hud 1 hitherto hem regarded as rather ‘ unusual for men’s wear, i There will be several shades of blue, green, brown, gray and olive that will be shown by leading hatters of the more metropolitan cities of the country, and each of these colors wilt be displayed fc” many modela that a man will be almost bewildered when he goes into a store and tries to fir.i a hat that will be becoming to liiin. IJesides the number of colors there will be en eou.illy great number of colored bauds which will be made to contrast wiih the bodyy of the hat. making the enUre appearance nt nl-tractive and distinctive as any hats which have ever been designed. Perhaps the most ‘ standard of all styles will be the high tapering crown hat which had a rather limited (.tart ill the straw hats of tlie past summer. The mushroom brim and the diamond dip telescope will continue in popularity and are certain to be worn as exleito-ivelj as they w.-re during the past season. Cloth hats will be soniewlmt in vogje. but they will not be nearly as popular as they have been ami will be worn mr for knock-about use than for regular street and diets wear. ; There will not be any decided (change in the general proportion for full hats: that is. tlie relation between the height of tlie crown and the idth ; of the brim will be about as it Has for spring, though ‘ some few instances we will find young men wearing the crowns less telescoped and l consequent ly very much higher than ; the previous mo le ‘ For early fall wear the soft list will J of course be preferred to the derby, j for there has been u special season developed for the wearing of soft hatii. J Years ago a man’s supply of hats was creations and looked a great deal inoi lik? a cape than a coat. As the style became more popular there was a decided demand for a more severe tailored cut. and little by little the Balinacaan lost a great deal of its looseness and liHKviness. The usual Kagian t boulder of the Hal-macaan coat will be replaced for Fall wear by a regular tailored shoulder anil ths niil’tary Prussian collar effect will be reulsced by a velvet collar which will set vei low on the shoulder. The lapele uf the Fall flalmaeaan will be extremely wide and almost right triangular In shipe. The rough home-spun and tweeds which were so popular in thes xiJls for Spring wear will be shown again f .r Full w ear, but they w ill be made doubly serviceable by reason of the fact that most of them will be cravanetted: 1 owever. there will be a number of Kerseys. Meltons and Vicunas which adapt themselves .iiore readily to the tailored effect of the Fall styles. The double-breasted coat will also come into vogue again, but it will be a different double-breasted coat than the one lluit most of us know. In place of the cuat with which men uf today are well acquainted, we will have a style which goes back nearly ,1’i years, and one with which our fathers are probably more familiar than we ale. The double-breasted coat is not only a handsome one. but perhaps the most serviceable style ever brought out. as it is undoubtedly a type fy V inter wear and warmth. OPENING The Twin City Camera Jf-l Room 9 Northern Building vlUw Opposite Queens Ave., Jasper E. STRICTLY HIGH GRADE PORTRAITURE MEWS, COMMERCIAL PHOTOGRAPHY AND AMATEUR FINISHING. Films Developed Free Have Yours Done ALL YOUNG PEOPLE OF THE TWIN CITIES, ESPECIALLY AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS, ARE INVITED TO JOIN OUR CAMERA CLUB. usually confined to two style, a stiff hat and a itnw fast, the stiff hat being worn during the entire fall, winter and spring feeajoos, and the straw hat for summer. Style tendencies have changed, however, and wc new find for early fail use. and early spring wear that the soft bat Is preferred by most men. Teis is readily understood aiun one appreciate! tlie totnfort that a soft lia affords. A men’s vardrobe to be complete should bow contain ijpi.roiniu tely four different styles of hats per year, of which two should be soft hats, with, of course, tlie addition of a high silk hat for formal sear. The silk hats for fall wear will show an almost absolute exclusion of the opera type and will be blocked on the high tapering crown and fiat brim order and should follow the lints of French hats. Golf caps for fall wear will be shown iu a great many mote patterns than heietofore, and will be made of a git.il number of imported English and (itimun woolens. . They will be made in very larae shapes, practically along the same lines as those shown for spring. CAPTURE GERMAN LINER Steamer Bethania Towed Into Port as British Prize (Western Associated Press.) LONIjON”, Hept. 11. A despatch received here from Kingston, Jamaica, says that the Hamburg-American line steamer Bethania has been towed into tlie harbor there as a priae by a Kriiish cruiser. he has on board 400 tiermans who have been taken r soners. The lleiluiuia left Genoa July 25 and Teneriffe, August 3. for the west coast of ttouth America. Khe a steamer of t.KIT tons. PRAYER FOR SAILORS British Seamen Given Cards for Spiritual Guidance (Western Associated Press) j HARWICH.. Ei.g.. Kept. 11. Every ! seaman in the British fleet has had pre-j seiited to him by his captain a sailor prayer printed on a card bearing me request “Kindly place this in your cap.” It is as follows: “O Heavenly Father, forgive my sins and strengthen me in all tliat is right. Giant me help to cam out my duty faithfully and bravely. Bless and protect the officers and men on this ship. Shelter ml I love from harm in my absence. For our ‘hrist’s sake. A men.” STYLES FOM THE EAST Mrs. Ijtw has just returned from the east where she has lieen making a study of all the latest styles. She brought many very attractive hats I with her on returning. All the latest ! ideas are worked out and dibplayed in ! Sxd taste. Sailor and ready-to-wear hats ,as wall as a good assortment of trimming?, are to be found at her parlors. because of the double fold of clot, which the Idea necessitates. The double-breasted coat will be shows ; in two jreneral styles: one loose tittinf; land with the box hack, the other BOine-j what form fitting uu the older of the ; paddock coat, but without any plaits. hy now most men will fciio- that rc-j ductlon in the tariff does not greatly af- feet h price of clothes to the consumer. : tine maker explained that the woolens ‘which lie formerly imported at $l.s7 1-2 ‘is now reduced to ft. OH 1-2. and that j since there are but three to three and a ‘ half yards of doth In a suit, the saviig to the consumer is only from 75 to fe. 1 In fact. Increases in tailoring cost have ! more than balanced up this saving in ! woolens, and the cost of a suit to the re-j lailer is a great now as it was before j tlie tariff, went into effect. However, the tariff has accomplished one very im-; porta lit thing for the American good ; dresser. It has placed Knglish, Uerman. haxou uid Belgian woolens on a roni-! petitive Iwsis with American woolens ‘and has allowed their use in a lees cx-j pensix e suit than heretofore. NEW MILLINERY OPENED : L, Riopel has this fall opened a mil linery and ladies tailoring establishment on Kinistino avenue, north of (he tracks. The beautiful stock, seven i years’ experience in the city with one of tlie largest firms, and a large num-: ber of acquaintances, argues well for I the swi’ess of the present venture.

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